Category Archives: Wine Making

Flextanks – Press Democrat

    The following article was in the Press Democrat, the Santa Rosa newspaper on November 3rd, 2013.  It is so interesting in that we went through the same issues as he did last year and came up with the same solution!

Plastic tanks catch on in wine industry


  • Mitch Black, owner of Black Knight Vineyards, maneuvers between plastic tanks and wooden barrels of fermenting wine while bringing a bottle of wine out for a taste at his barn in Santa Rosa. (ALVIN JORNADA/Press Democrat)

Like many winemakers, Mitch Black scrambled to find a place to store his wine last year when the largest grape crop in California history unleashed a flood of wine.

Companies that make wooden barrels and steel tanks couldn’t churn them out them fast enough to meet demand from wineries and growers, like Black, who were looking for a place to put their juice.

So Black, along with a growing number of winemakers in California, turned to plastic containers to ferment and store his valuable crop.

“I went big into Flextanks last year, because I didn’t have another option,” said Black, owner of Black Knight Vineyards.

In an old barn surrounded by vineyards on his Santa Rosa property, Black keeps several plastic cylindrical barrels that he uses for his personal winemaking. A batch of pinot noir grapes ferment in a thick, blue plastic olive barrel that holds about 55 gallons of grapes and their steaming juices, while a series of 70-gallon Flextanks, made of a oxygen-permeable polyethylene, hold maturing pinot noir from the 2012 and 2013 crops.

For his commercial operation, Black has a series of larger, stackable Flextanks that hold up to 300 gallons.

Flextank, one of the main domestic manufacturers of plastic tanks for wine, has increased its sales about 20 percent a year since 2006, said Mike Humes, vice president of operations and marketing for the Athens, Ga., company.

“Once we get a foothold, our sales keep growing as people stack them up,” Humes said.

The Flextank vessels are free of BPA and phthalates, a group of chemicals that make plastic more flexible, he said.

“We thought we were doing something unique, but oh no, it’s becoming more mainstream,” said Erik Overholt, winemaker and vineyard manager atLinde Vineyards, a small winery in Cloverdale. “Many wineries are not wanting to mention it, because it doesn’t fit in with the romantic notion of wine.”

Overholt, a grower-turned-vintner like Black who began making wine when it was tough to sell grapes, now makes about 500 to 600 gallons of wine per season, he said.

When Overholt was comparing prices for plastic and stainless steel tanks, he found a steel tank that held about 150 gallons cost almost the same price as a plastic vessel that held 300 gallons.

“If you want to maximize your storage capacity and minimize your cost, obviously the plastic will be much more cost-efficient,” Overholt said.

The plastic tanks come in a range of sizes that make winemaking more manageable for small to mid-sized wineries, vintners said.

“A lot of the wineries are really gaining some acceptance in using this,” said Ron Althouse, director of sales for Tanks for Wine, which sells Flextanks. “At first it was kind of slow.”

Plastic tanks are being used by winemakers for fermenting the grapes, a process that can take several weeks depending on the varietal, and for aging wines, which can take about a year for some white wines or several years for reds. The wines are moved to bottles after they’ve spent time maturing, and can be aged further in the bottle.

After the oversized crop in 2012, when a record 266,000 tons of grapes were harvested in Sonoma County, many wineries still had juice in tanks and barrels when the 2013 crop — which many are predicting will be just as big — started to roll in.

That sent some shopping for alternatives to traditional new or used barrels, which have been more expensive since supply ran low last year.

“You used to be able to buy a used barrel from $20 to $60 depending on the conditions,” said Christopher Christensen, owner and winemaker for Healdsburg-based Bodkin Wines. “Those prices effectively doubled as barrels got snapped up over the summer. To a certain extent, barrels became cost-prohibitive.”

Christensen chose to invest in plastic containers for fermenting grapes after working in Australia, where the practice is more common, he said. He still ages wines in wood barrels, but is considering purchasing a plastic, egg-shaped vessel that can be used for fermenting and aging wines.

“I know concrete egg tanks are all the rage, but I didn’t exactly have the capital to spend on a concrete tank,” Christensen said.

Meanwhile, oak “staves,” which are wooden slats or chips that can be used to impart oaky flavors in wines aged in plastic, stainless steel or older barrels, have been growing in popularity, according to Alicia McBride, general manager of Innerstave, a Sonoma-based company that makes oak inserts from American and French wood.

The interest in alternatives to traditional oak barrels often comes from younger winemakers or those that aren’t “hung up” on wine being in a barrel, she said.

Many premium and ultra-premium wineries are using plastic tanks and oak staves, but most don’t want to talk about it, she said.

“There are a lot of winemakers that want to remain traditional, and I completely understand that,” McBride said. “There’s a certain sexiness about the barrel. You don’t really want to walk your tourists through the cellar and show them all these plastic containers around and then ask them to buy a bottle of wine.”

 

2013 Sauvignon Blanc – Pick/Destem/Press/Rack/Ferment

jeanette and Joey

 

We waited for Joey’s friend Jeanette to arrive from Texas and then picked, destemmed and pressed our Sauvignon Blanc.

We ended up with 200 pounds (enough for 4 1/2 cases).  Brix 21.5, pH 3.6 and TA 3.9.  Just about perfect…with very nice flavor and brown seeds.  Last year we picked at the same time as the Pinot, but this year I put a little to much fruit on the vines so it had to ripen for an extra 6 weeks.

 

Joey Grapes

 

Joey with her harvest

 

grapes and press

 

We pulled out all the same equipment as with the Pinot.  The real exception with white vs red is you ferment the red on its skins and with the white you press it right away.  The press held the 200 pounds easily, in fact I think we could have had 600 pounds in the 170L press.

 

sb 2013

 

Here is the wine after we racked the gross lees.  You can see that the fermentation has started after we added yeast on 10/21.  It should take around 8 days and then we will rack off the lees and add malolactic bacteria and let it ferment again for a few months.

2013 Sauvignon Blanc – Ready to Pick

Sauv Blanc Nets

 

For most vineyards the 3rd leaf is the first time you get grapes.  Not so for Joey’s Sauvignon Blanc.  Last year (her second year) we got 35 lbs which resulted in 2 gallons of wine.  In addition, we harvested her grapes the same time as the Pinot Noir on Sept 23rd.

This year I left a little to much fruit on the vines given it does not get as much sun as the Pinot Noir, so it has grown well but is 5 weeks behind in ripening.  However, we have had almost no rain and the days have been warm so it is finally ready to pick!  How do I know?  The birds have started to peck and eat the grapes.

Sunday we will pick, destem and crush the grapes…then on Monday we will rack and introduce yeast…fun, fun, fun!!!

 

 

Stirring Lees and of course, Tasting!

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Our 2013 Pinot Noir is now 3 weeks in “barrel” resting on fine lees.  It is undergoing malolactic fermentation and I expect this will take another 1-3 months as the nights here are becoming chilly.

Another item we are doing differently this year is that we will stir our lees every few weeks.  The theory is that it will enhance the mouth feel of the wine.  So…I was off to TAP Plastics this morning to purchase a food grade 54″ long, 3/8″ diameter rod.  Worked like a charm.

And of course…had to have a little taste to start the morning out right.  It was wonderful and I think better than the 2012 at the same stage last year.  A side note…last year we added an enzyme for color and quicker clarification.  We found out this is not needed for Pinot Noir so we didn’t do it this year, but you could notice the wine is not as clear.  It will take a little longer to fall clear!

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Pinot Noir Jelly – or What to do with Seconds!

jars of jelly

 

What do you when you have picked all your grapes for wine and are left with seconds?  (What are seconds?  They are the very small cluster of grapes above the fruit zone and are about 4 weeks behind in ripeness)  Well…first you pick them.  In our case we got around 55 pounds.  And then you make jelly, lots of jelly!!!  This is how we spent our Saturday.  If you want a great recipe to make Pinot Noir, or other grape Jelly, that doesn’t mask the taste of your grapes with too much sugar, download the eBook, Health Begins in the Kitchen .  We ended up with 55 1-cup Jelly Jars and an extra 8 cups of grape juice.

Bucket of grapes

canning

New Bladder Press in Action !

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After 5 days cold soak and 8 days of fermentation, it was time to press.  This year we pressed when the hydrometer reading hit 0.3, which means we had a little sugar left to ferment.  If you are not familiar with a hydrometer it measures the density of the mixture and has a dual scale for density/sugar content.

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It is the preference of the winery where to press during the fermentation process.  Most of the skin tannins are obtained early in the process as they are water soluble and the seed/wood tannins are more alcohol soluble so they are picked up at the end of fermentation.  I want a more fruit forward Pinot, so I press early and let the fermentation end when all the skins/seeds/wood are removed.

One thing you can’t see is the intense color and taste of the pressed skins.  At the end of the press cycle is very intense wine…that tastes great if you don’t go to long.

After the wine is pressed I allow it to settle for 1 day and then rack off the gross lees.  In my opinion, if I left them with the wine and was not careful I could pick up some back sulfur odors.

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Finally, we have added some French Toasted Oak during malolactic fermentation to allow this flavor to blend in, and then the wine is put to bed while we wait for the malolactic fermentation to finish before we taste the final product.  In about 6 weeks we will sulfur and let it age.

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We ended up with 74 gallons of wine from a little over 1/2 ton of grapes.

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2013 Fermentation Log

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For those interested in making wine…I’m documenting how long it takes to make Pinot Noir and the details of the fermentation. On the bottom, I’ll compare last year to this year…hoping that the changes we made will turn out as planned and increase the complexity of the 2013 wine.

2013 FERMENTATION LOG

9/10/13 – Harvest 837 pounds Pommard, 200 pounds 667, destem only, 30 ppm sulfur, 40 pounds of dry ice to begin cold soak. It is best to keep the must 9/12 40 pounds dry ice to continue cold soak
9/13 – 41 degrees in center, 60 degrees on the sides
9/14 30 pounds dry ice to continue cold soak
9/15 – Added 1.0 g/l tartaric acid, added 3 oz GoFerm in 1 quart of hot water. Cooled to 110 degrees F and added Assmanhausen yeast. Spread over the top of the bin and closed the cover
9/16 – 10am Yeast smell with small colonies forming
* 3pm 60 degrees, punched down
* 6:45pm 65 degrees, punched down, cap forming
9/17 – 8am 66 degrees, punched down, cap 3-4″
* 11am 66 degrees, punched down
* 3pm 67 degrees, punched down
* 7pm 72 degrees, punched down, 23.5 brix
9/18 – 7:30am 66 degrees, punched down, 21.5 brix
* 1pm 71 degrees, punched down, 20.5 brix
* 5pm 76 degrees, punched down, 21 brix
* 7:30pm 78 degrees, punched down
9/19 – 6:15am 67 degrees, punched down, 16 brix
* 1:45pm 78 degrees, punched down, 14 brix
* 6:45pm 80 degrees, punched down, 11 brix, added 0.33 g/l tartaric acid
9/20 – 7am 67 degrees, punched down, 9.5 brix
* 10:30am 74 degrees, punched down, 8 brix
* 1:30pm 76 degrees, punched down, 6 brix
* 8pm 78 degrees, punched down, 6 brix
9/21 – 10:30am 72 degrees, punched down, 5.2 brix
* 1:30pm 74 degrees, punched down, 4.7 brix

9/22 – Almost done
9/23 – I’m anticipating here is when we will press!
9/24 – Rack of gross lees

Last year(2012) from the time we introduced yeast until the wine was dry (0 brix) was 5 days. This year we used a new “Destemmer Only” machine that did not crush the grapes. In addition we put the 1/2 ton bin in a shaded location. This has significantly lengthened our fermentation to 8 days and reduced the maximum cap temperature from 90 degrees in 2012 to 80 degrees in 2013. We are hoping this longer/cooler fermentation will lead to a more complex wine.  Also, we did not use enzymes to enhance the break down of the skins as this is not needed for Pinot Noir.  Enzymes are great for color, pressing and settling of the lees but with Pinot Noir you may lose some of the elegant characteristics.  Our color this year was fantastic and the flavor of the juice outstanding.

This year we will introduce our Toasted French Oak (Medium Plus) adjuncts immediately after pressing the grapes. This again will make a more complex wine since during malolactic fermentation the yeast and oak will interact. We will leave them in for 2-3 months, or when the taste is where we like it to be.

2013 Winemaking Modifications

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2013 was our second harvest and our second year of making Russian River Pinot.  What was really exciting is that we kept 1/2 ton to make our own wine and sold 2 tons to Horse and Plow.  We get to see in a year or so how our winemaking stacks up to a commercial winery.

So…even though we really liked our 2012 Pinot and got good reviews from our wine friends and an entire wedding party, we decided to make improvements for this year.  I hope this will be our close to our final process.

IMPROVEMENTS FROM 2012

1. Less watering from set to veraison  to reduce pH of grapes – This was a success so far.  Our grapes came in at 3.76 ph vs 3.9 last year even though brix went up from 23 to 24.
2. We will “oak” our wine during secondary fermentation instead of waiting until it is finished
3. We purchased a bladder press and a destemmer only. The destemmer did not crush the grapes so we hope to have some whole berries and I think we will get a better juice from this small press.
4. We did not add enzymes this year. From what I read and discussed with other winemakers this is not needed from Pinot Noir due to the thin skin.
5. We will press the grapes before they have gone dry to reduce the amount of harsh tannins you get from the seeds. Seed tannins are alcohol soluble.
6. We picked at a higher brix for a riper berry. We hope this will add more complex flavors, but not to high to be overpowering with alcohol.
7. When we sulfur after malolactic fermentation, we will add a larger dose of sulfur upfront instead of trying to keep it at the correct range every month. The intent is to stop any harmful bacteria from growing initially by binding them with sulfur and make adjustments a few months later.

WHAT STAYED THE SAME

1. The cold soak is still 5 days with dry ice.
2. We will continue to use oak adjuncts with our Flex Tanks. We think the Flex Tanks give us a better aromatic profile than oak barrels. In addition, with a small winemaking operation oak barrels are difficult to manage. We have had 2 friends whose wine went bad due to bad barrels this last year.
3. We used Assmanhausen yeast again this year. Many people ferment with wild yeast but with our higher pH that would be a big risk.

 

 

 

Destemmer Only?

destemmer

 

Last year we were lucky enough to make our wine at EMTU Vineyards with our friends Chris and John Mason.  They are about 7 miles away so it was difficult to punch down 3 times per day for 10 days and do all the work necessary to make wine.  So this year we decided to invest in some equipment and make the wine at our house.

A few weeks ago I posted a picture of the 160 L bladder press that will handle about 1/2 ton of fermented grapes.  Our latest investment is a destemmer, it separates the berries from the stem by use of an auger and paddles.  We went the Beverage People in Santa Rosa.  They brought these in special just for Pinot Noir home winemakers.  They only had three in stock as they didn’t know who would buy these…they said only winemakers who had French friends that had tasted Burgundy would do it.  But wouldn’t you know, the three all were sold in one week, and one was to us!

Normally for whites and many reds you crush and destem at the same time.  However for Pinot Noir the idea is to destem only and ferment with whole berries.  This is gentler on the berry and will prolong the fermentation since the grape is whole and it will take longer for the yeast to penetrate the berry.  The goal is a more complex flavor profile by retaining the aromatics in the grape longer, or so I have read.  Actually, most of the commercial wineries only destem and then do an inspection on a sorter table to take out any bad berries.

Will have to see how it turns out!

 

Is it ready to Pick? Brix, TA and Seeds

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The first question I normally get this time of year is…how do you know if the grapes are ready to pick?  The most important thing is taste.  If it does not taste good as a grape it won’t taste good in your glass 2 years later.  Next is sugar and acid content.  To measure sugar we use a refractometer (the silver/black tool in the middle of the picture).  At Turtle Vines, we don’t like high alcohol wines, so when the sugar is near 24 brix (%) it will make 13.5% alcohol wine.  In addition, you want your acids to remain fairly high. I use test strips (above right) to give me an indication.  Even if it goes low you can add some to the wine later.  Lastly you look at the seeds.  These will add tannins to the wine.  You want the seeds to be brown.  This will give a nice flavor.  If they are green it will add a vegetative flavor you don’t want in red wine.  See the picture below.  Brown seeds with green tips.  I hope they are all brown by the time we pick next week.  As an aside, last year in our first harvest they were mostly green, but the wine still tasted nice.

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