Author Archives: Doug Williams

Is Winemaking like making Chocolate?

We had the good fortune to be in Kona, HI last week with family.  It was a great trip!

When Joanne and I vacation we love to visit small farms to learn from them and hopefully bottle some of their enthusiasm to bring home.  We ended up at Original Hawaiin Chocolate Factory (OHCF) .  What a great story and a wonderful tour of how a family moved from North Carolina 15 years ago, bought a 5 acre farm and started making chocolate.  They are the only bean to bar maker of chocolate in the industrialized world!

So, what did I learn and is it like making hand-crafted Pinot Noir in Russian River Valley?  Let’s see.

Cacao is grown 15-20 degrees from the equator in 3 major varieties…Forastero, Criollo and Trinitario.  Cacao trees  are pruned to 10-15 feet and blossom 5 months of the year.  The fruit takes about 6-7 months to ripen.  You can tell they are ripe when they brighten in color.  They say when they look like Easter Eggs, they are ready to pick!  Since the blossoms take 5 months and they fruit take 6-8 months to ripen, you can’t harvest cacao all at once.  They do it every 2 weeks to ensure optimal flavor.  Wow, a labor of love.

Cacao tree

Next they cut open the pods (top picture) and take out the white seed/beans.  These are then fermented to remove the white outer material for 6-8 days.

ferment choc

Then they are dried in the sun for 22-28 days to lower the moisture content to <7%.  At this point they can be stored almost indefinitely.

Drying Choc

Then the fun part begins.   The beans are now roasted.  It took them a lot of experimentation to find the right time and temperature to give the correct flavor profile.  The bean are now winnowed to remove the outer shell and crushed into nibs.  Next the nibs are ground down into a thick liquid mass and vanilla and lecithin are added to make dark chocolate.  This process takes up to 18 hours to get a velvety texture.  The liquid is then cooled from 120 F to 86 F and then poured into molds.

temp choco

And then you have chocolate!

We loved the Criollo Dark Chocolate…tastes very smooth but has 70% cacao without any milk.

What did I learn…Just like growing and making wine, a tremendous amount of effort and passion is needed to make a good final product.  For chocolate I think the skill is in the correct harvest time and in processing.  For wine, I think more time is spent in growing the produce.  In both cases…grow a wonderful grape/bean and then don’t mess it up in how you process it!

choc sign

Wine asleep for the Winter!

2013 Wine

All of our 2013 wine is now set for the winter.  The Pinot Noir is undergoing malolactic fermentation and probably won’t finish for at least a month or longer depending on the temperature of the garage.  The Sauvignon Blanc is finishing primary fermentation and we will introduce malolactic bacteria in a few weeks when we rack a third time.

So…31 cases of Pinot Noir (we sold 2.1 tons of grapes) and 4.7 cases of Sauvignon Blanc!

 

Flextanks – Press Democrat

    The following article was in the Press Democrat, the Santa Rosa newspaper on November 3rd, 2013.  It is so interesting in that we went through the same issues as he did last year and came up with the same solution!

Plastic tanks catch on in wine industry


  • Mitch Black, owner of Black Knight Vineyards, maneuvers between plastic tanks and wooden barrels of fermenting wine while bringing a bottle of wine out for a taste at his barn in Santa Rosa. (ALVIN JORNADA/Press Democrat)

Like many winemakers, Mitch Black scrambled to find a place to store his wine last year when the largest grape crop in California history unleashed a flood of wine.

Companies that make wooden barrels and steel tanks couldn’t churn them out them fast enough to meet demand from wineries and growers, like Black, who were looking for a place to put their juice.

So Black, along with a growing number of winemakers in California, turned to plastic containers to ferment and store his valuable crop.

“I went big into Flextanks last year, because I didn’t have another option,” said Black, owner of Black Knight Vineyards.

In an old barn surrounded by vineyards on his Santa Rosa property, Black keeps several plastic cylindrical barrels that he uses for his personal winemaking. A batch of pinot noir grapes ferment in a thick, blue plastic olive barrel that holds about 55 gallons of grapes and their steaming juices, while a series of 70-gallon Flextanks, made of a oxygen-permeable polyethylene, hold maturing pinot noir from the 2012 and 2013 crops.

For his commercial operation, Black has a series of larger, stackable Flextanks that hold up to 300 gallons.

Flextank, one of the main domestic manufacturers of plastic tanks for wine, has increased its sales about 20 percent a year since 2006, said Mike Humes, vice president of operations and marketing for the Athens, Ga., company.

“Once we get a foothold, our sales keep growing as people stack them up,” Humes said.

The Flextank vessels are free of BPA and phthalates, a group of chemicals that make plastic more flexible, he said.

“We thought we were doing something unique, but oh no, it’s becoming more mainstream,” said Erik Overholt, winemaker and vineyard manager atLinde Vineyards, a small winery in Cloverdale. “Many wineries are not wanting to mention it, because it doesn’t fit in with the romantic notion of wine.”

Overholt, a grower-turned-vintner like Black who began making wine when it was tough to sell grapes, now makes about 500 to 600 gallons of wine per season, he said.

When Overholt was comparing prices for plastic and stainless steel tanks, he found a steel tank that held about 150 gallons cost almost the same price as a plastic vessel that held 300 gallons.

“If you want to maximize your storage capacity and minimize your cost, obviously the plastic will be much more cost-efficient,” Overholt said.

The plastic tanks come in a range of sizes that make winemaking more manageable for small to mid-sized wineries, vintners said.

“A lot of the wineries are really gaining some acceptance in using this,” said Ron Althouse, director of sales for Tanks for Wine, which sells Flextanks. “At first it was kind of slow.”

Plastic tanks are being used by winemakers for fermenting the grapes, a process that can take several weeks depending on the varietal, and for aging wines, which can take about a year for some white wines or several years for reds. The wines are moved to bottles after they’ve spent time maturing, and can be aged further in the bottle.

After the oversized crop in 2012, when a record 266,000 tons of grapes were harvested in Sonoma County, many wineries still had juice in tanks and barrels when the 2013 crop — which many are predicting will be just as big — started to roll in.

That sent some shopping for alternatives to traditional new or used barrels, which have been more expensive since supply ran low last year.

“You used to be able to buy a used barrel from $20 to $60 depending on the conditions,” said Christopher Christensen, owner and winemaker for Healdsburg-based Bodkin Wines. “Those prices effectively doubled as barrels got snapped up over the summer. To a certain extent, barrels became cost-prohibitive.”

Christensen chose to invest in plastic containers for fermenting grapes after working in Australia, where the practice is more common, he said. He still ages wines in wood barrels, but is considering purchasing a plastic, egg-shaped vessel that can be used for fermenting and aging wines.

“I know concrete egg tanks are all the rage, but I didn’t exactly have the capital to spend on a concrete tank,” Christensen said.

Meanwhile, oak “staves,” which are wooden slats or chips that can be used to impart oaky flavors in wines aged in plastic, stainless steel or older barrels, have been growing in popularity, according to Alicia McBride, general manager of Innerstave, a Sonoma-based company that makes oak inserts from American and French wood.

The interest in alternatives to traditional oak barrels often comes from younger winemakers or those that aren’t “hung up” on wine being in a barrel, she said.

Many premium and ultra-premium wineries are using plastic tanks and oak staves, but most don’t want to talk about it, she said.

“There are a lot of winemakers that want to remain traditional, and I completely understand that,” McBride said. “There’s a certain sexiness about the barrel. You don’t really want to walk your tourists through the cellar and show them all these plastic containers around and then ask them to buy a bottle of wine.”

 

Organic Epson Salts

Epson Salts

 

If you have been reading the blog, you will know that the Pinot Noir harvest has been a little high in  pH.  This was due to 3 reasons: young vineyards normally have high pH’s; watering between set and veraison will cause the vines to pull up potassium from the soil; if the soil does not have the correct ratio of Calcium/potassium/magnesium of around 6/1/1 with more potassium than magnesium, the potassium will be pulled into the berries and raise the pH.

Our 2012 Pinot Noir harvest resulted in a pH of 3.9 and potassium level of 2100 ppm.

Our 2013 harvest resulted in a pH of 3.76 and potassium level of 1700 ppm with 1 year of growing and limiting the water from set to veraison.

For 2014 we are adding 1/2 pound of Organic Epson Salt per vine.  The Epson Salt will add magnesium level close to the potassium level.  Hopefully this should reduce the uptake of potassium.  In addition, we are installing an extra drip hose for those vines that need water.  This will alleviate the need to water an entire row until it needs it.  This should help the potassium level as well as enhance the flavor of the grapes.

So…how is this done.   We purchased 1600 pounds of Epson Salt and will sprinkle this along the vine row.  When it rains this will quickly dissolve into the soil.

Epson 1

Let’s hope it works well!  Only have to wait a year to find out…I’m hoping to get a pH of 3.55 for 2014, which would be perfect for my style of Pinot!

Epson 2

Cover Crops and Native Insectary Wildflowers

Clover and native wildflowers

 

To enhance the soil and limit water uptake, typically cover crops are planted.

Next week, I’ll spread 30-40 pounds of clover on the entire vineyard and 5 pounds of Native Wildflowers on select rows.  The Wildflowers will add beauty, but more importantly, be an insectary for bees and good insects to protect the vines.  BTW…clover is about $3/pound but the Wildflowers were $22/pound.  I had better not mow them down in the spring!!!

What is in the Wildflower Mix?  Blue Eyed Grass, California Ble Bell, Chinese Houses, Goldfields, Baby Blue Eyes, Tidy Tips, Birds Eye, Blue Flax, Lupine, Farewell-to-Spring, California Poppy, Arroyo Blue Lupine, Yarrow, Five Spot and Globe Gilia.

 

 

2013 Sauvignon Blanc – Pick/Destem/Press/Rack/Ferment

jeanette and Joey

 

We waited for Joey’s friend Jeanette to arrive from Texas and then picked, destemmed and pressed our Sauvignon Blanc.

We ended up with 200 pounds (enough for 4 1/2 cases).  Brix 21.5, pH 3.6 and TA 3.9.  Just about perfect…with very nice flavor and brown seeds.  Last year we picked at the same time as the Pinot, but this year I put a little to much fruit on the vines so it had to ripen for an extra 6 weeks.

 

Joey Grapes

 

Joey with her harvest

 

grapes and press

 

We pulled out all the same equipment as with the Pinot.  The real exception with white vs red is you ferment the red on its skins and with the white you press it right away.  The press held the 200 pounds easily, in fact I think we could have had 600 pounds in the 170L press.

 

sb 2013

 

Here is the wine after we racked the gross lees.  You can see that the fermentation has started after we added yeast on 10/21.  It should take around 8 days and then we will rack off the lees and add malolactic bacteria and let it ferment again for a few months.

2013 Sauvignon Blanc – Ready to Pick

Sauv Blanc Nets

 

For most vineyards the 3rd leaf is the first time you get grapes.  Not so for Joey’s Sauvignon Blanc.  Last year (her second year) we got 35 lbs which resulted in 2 gallons of wine.  In addition, we harvested her grapes the same time as the Pinot Noir on Sept 23rd.

This year I left a little to much fruit on the vines given it does not get as much sun as the Pinot Noir, so it has grown well but is 5 weeks behind in ripening.  However, we have had almost no rain and the days have been warm so it is finally ready to pick!  How do I know?  The birds have started to peck and eat the grapes.

Sunday we will pick, destem and crush the grapes…then on Monday we will rack and introduce yeast…fun, fun, fun!!!

 

 

Stirring Lees and of course, Tasting!

P1000504

 

Our 2013 Pinot Noir is now 3 weeks in “barrel” resting on fine lees.  It is undergoing malolactic fermentation and I expect this will take another 1-3 months as the nights here are becoming chilly.

Another item we are doing differently this year is that we will stir our lees every few weeks.  The theory is that it will enhance the mouth feel of the wine.  So…I was off to TAP Plastics this morning to purchase a food grade 54″ long, 3/8″ diameter rod.  Worked like a charm.

And of course…had to have a little taste to start the morning out right.  It was wonderful and I think better than the 2012 at the same stage last year.  A side note…last year we added an enzyme for color and quicker clarification.  We found out this is not needed for Pinot Noir so we didn’t do it this year, but you could notice the wine is not as clear.  It will take a little longer to fall clear!

P1000503

How to predict harvest date – Growing Degree Days/Bud Break/Veraison…Part II

Truck with grapes
As I sit here in October I’m reflecting on the year and trying to determine additional changes to make for 2014. I have been tracking milestones in the vineyard to determine if I can predict the harvest date early in the year…and it looks like with 2 years worth of data I can (so far).

Year                                       2013             2012           Difference

Bub Break                                3/5               3/20            -15
Veraison                                  7/8               7/21            -13
Harvest                                   9/11              9/23            -12
Brix Adjustment                      23.5              23.0            -3
Brix Adjusted Harvest                                                    -15
Growing Degree Days            2000            1786           -14

Wow…back in March I could have predicted the harvest date in September!  Better yet…if I track Growing Degree Days throughout the year it will let me get an idea of the harvest date early…all this is assuming no big heat spikes!

One last item….back in April last year I predicted 2.75 tons of grapes  based on a simple formula of pounds per grape and we came in at 2.61.  Not bad….for 2014 I’m going out on a limb and predicting 4.2 tons.

 

Pinot Noir Jelly – or What to do with Seconds!

jars of jelly

 

What do you when you have picked all your grapes for wine and are left with seconds?  (What are seconds?  They are the very small cluster of grapes above the fruit zone and are about 4 weeks behind in ripeness)  Well…first you pick them.  In our case we got around 55 pounds.  And then you make jelly, lots of jelly!!!  This is how we spent our Saturday.  If you want a great recipe to make Pinot Noir, or other grape Jelly, that doesn’t mask the taste of your grapes with too much sugar, download the eBook, Health Begins in the Kitchen .  We ended up with 55 1-cup Jelly Jars and an extra 8 cups of grape juice.

Bucket of grapes

canning